Tiny Trinidad, whose days of prosperity are preserved in aspic, is, quite simply, one of the finest colonial towns in all of the Americas. Wholly disproportionate to its small size, Trinidad ranks as one of Cuba's greatest attractions. Only a few square blocks of cobblestone streets, pretty pastel-colored 18th- and 19th-century houses, palaces, and plazas. Trinidad its serenity is so soothing that many visitors are easily coaxed into much longer stays. Magically frozen in time and tastefully scruffy where it needs to be, the streets tend to be more populated by horse-drawn carts than automobile traffic, and old folks still crouch by windows, behind fancy wrought-iron grilles, to peer out at passersby.

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